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I woke the day of the baptism with a ghastly
feeling. I knew the day would come sooner or later, but I put
that in the back of my head until it hit me hard like a hangover.
I rose to the refreshing morning sun of Greece as I had for
the last two months, only today was the big day. In Greece it
is an honor to baptize somebody's child. It is a symbol of respect
and trust. However, I only learned those things after I had
baptized the 6-year-old boy I had never before met.
His name is Sophecles. I wondered why I was
chosen to be the Godfather. Having grown up American I questioned
if I was suitable for the job. I was at the time, and still
am, very influenced by American culture. The newest and freshest
culture, some say. But Greek culture is one of the oldest and
most respected. It is hard to find a common ground between the
two. In Greece traditions are respected, as is the older generation.
There, family and religion are focal points of life, while in
America those aspects of life, although still important, seem
to be fading away. My father grew up in a very old village with
very old traditions. His village did not feel the heat or see
by the light of electricity until the 1960s. It was there that
I was baptized almost 20 years earlier. In contrast, I was raised
with heat and air-conditioning, something that still hasn't
really caught on everywhere in Greece. I had the advantage of
modern electronics and medicine. The line that divides my childhood
and that of my fathers and family's in Greece, is a very thick
one. However, now Greece too has almost become completely submerged
in American culture. The next generation of Greeks are now sporting
Nike and Tommy Hilfiger.
But in some places in Greece, mostly islands,
you can still find ancient customs and culture very much alive.
The people on the island of Crete, where my father resides,
still adhere to those old traditions. It has taken me a long
time trying to marry my American and Greek cultures. It has
become much easier because of the rapid changes in Greece, but
I still feel an inner-strain sometimes. Sometimes when I am
in Greece I want to speak English so I can be understood more
and sometimes, while in America, I want to speak Greek so no
one can understand what I am saying. The problem always seems
to be that I have no one in Greece to really speak English to
and in America I have no one to speak Greek to.
Upon arriving on Crete I was told by my father
that I would be baptizing his friend's son. He had told me that
Sophecles father had asked him for me to be the Godfather. To
this day I don't know why. It was something that really went
in one ear and out the other. I didn't want to do it. I was
scared. I have been visiting the island during the summer months,
almost yearly since birth and had finally begun to recognize
the importance of being Greek. The baptism would be a true test
of that recognition. Not only was I expected to speak Greek
in front of many people, something that scares me to this day,
but I also had to perform certain customs throughout the ceremony,
I was told. Religion is very important in Greece and a baptism
allows one to become a Christian in the eyes of the church and
of God. At the time I did not know this, but a baptism is the
bestowing of a name.
My father took care of choosing a baptismal
name and I took care of the baptizing. Baptisms are an ancient
ritual in which the priest calls on the Godparent to be a guardian
over the baptized. The Godparent is required to repeat prayers
after the priest, meant to protect the child. The child is then
considered a Christian when his nude body is emerged in a mixture
of water and oil. After that his intellect, senses, affections
and actions are all dedicated and blessed by the Godparent.
I tried to muster something nice to wear, but
soon realized that I had only packed clothes for lounging on
the beach or visiting the local night clubs by my fathers house.
Things that I was used to doing in Greece. I found a casual
blue button down shirt and paired it with some white pants I
found at the bottom of my bag. I looked like a tourist and here
I was going to baptize Sophecles. It was a pitiful feeling.
I knew, however, that the experience would be something I would
never forget, so I tried to turn my pitiful feeling into a more
positive and proud one. The day started slow. We gathered together
with me, my cousin Maria, my cousin Marco and my father in one
car. We were followed by my two sisters, Maria and Alexi, my
mother and my friend Jeff in another car. Forward we drove toward
an experience that would change me forever.
Our first stop was at my own Godfather's house
where we were greeted with open arms and a full meal, the typical
welcoming of Greeks. My Godfather, Manoli, is a bear of a man.
A huge belly and wild hair accent his irreplaceable smile. He
gave me a hug and greeted the rest of his guests. I sat quietly
by myself, contemplating what was in store for me. The contemplation,
however, started to slow down after I was offered some raki.
Any time you visit a home, restaurant or bar on Crete, you will
surely be offered some raki. Raki, arguably could be considered
the drink of the island. It is a strong liquor made from the
stems of grapes that hits you with such power your eyes begin
to water. So you could imagine that all my worrying blew out
the door by the time I threw back my third shot of raki. We
stayed at my Godfather's home and ate and drank. At one point
he grabbed me to the side and told me that everything would
be fine. Most Greek men that I know would not do this, but my
Godfather was a different kind of Greek. His smile never went
away. I took his words to heart and thought about him baptizing
me 20 years earlier. We said our thanks and said our good-byes.
I was definitely feeling more at ease with the situation. Maybe
it was my Godfather's kind words or maybe it was the raki.
We loaded back into our cars and got back on
the road again. We traveled on old roads through villages of
whitewashed houses, whose exteriors were faded from the hundreds
of years of scorching sun they have survived. I traveled the
same roads often as a young boy. The same roads that used to
confuse me because of what I saw on them. In America we never
had to stop on any road, let alone a highway, to allow a herd
of goats to pass. We never saw 80-year-old men sitting sideways
on donkeys traveling home from work. Those are the images I
see in Greece everyday and they always helped further accent
the differences between Greek culture and American culture,
consequently creating a confusing void in my life. But then,
in my twentieth year, I understood the roads and was beginning
to understand the buildings and their meaning too. I was beginning
to understand the people and my family. The buildings represented
a foundation, strength and beauty with age. The same thing my
family in Greece represents. I was chosen to baptize Sophecles
for a reason. It was an act that would connect us as family
too.
We finally reached our second pit stop; a little
family owned restaurant outside the town of Dareavana is one
my father and I still visit. There we were treated like royalty
once again. An old couple, Nikos and Heriklia own the tiny restaurant.
They are distant family whom I see only a few times a year,
but they came out to greet us like they had been waiting a whole
year for us to return. Inside we ate and talked about the baptism
while the old man poured a few more shots of raki for the group.
By now I was ready to be a Godfather. (Again, the shots must
be taken into account. Most times my father would cut me off
after a couple of shots, from fear that I would fall into a
drunken stupor. This time he didn't seem to notice. Either he
was so proud of me or he himself had felt the effects of the
raki and didnt bother saying anything.) I felt like a man amongst
men. By this time we all had such bright smiles on our faces
that we could have drained the whitewash off a whole village.
The old couple wished me luck and yelled a phrase
I remember hearing my Grandma always say. Sto kalo. Meaning,
towards the good. I yelled back efharisto, thank you, as we
pulled away. I felt almost as if I were being rooted for like
the New York Yankees in the World Series. I realized how much
the baptism meant to a lot of people and in turn realized what
it meant to me, yet I was the one who had disregarded it for
so long. We pulled up to Sophecles parents home which was the
first time I had seen it. And all of a sudden his parents were
kissing me and hugging me while others seemed to be waiting
their turn. I looked at my dad in amazement, but he just looked
at me like I would know what to do next. I greeted everybody
with pride and finally I was introduced to Sophecles. He seemed
to be at ease in his red shirt and white shorts. Totally oblivious
to the fact that I would be the one, who in a few hours, would
be dunking his naked body into a tub of water while hundreds
looked on. I gave him a hug and talked to him briefly and before
I knew it we were off to the church.
The church, although not extremely large, was
full of pictures of gods and prophets. I was surrounded by my
family and the Greek Orthodox priest. The priest wore a royal
blue robe with a stunning gold and orange shawl. He seemed to
resemble the nobility of the prophets on the walls. I was told
to put my right hand on Sophecles shoulder while the priest
delivered the ritual prayers. Sophecles still didn't seem to
notice that he and I were the center of attention. The priest
would deliver prayers which I was to respond to. This was made
easier with the help of my father standing over my shoulder.
The priest would speak so fast and with my not-so-perfect Greek,
I would get lost sometimes. But before I knew it I was dunking
Sophecles into the tub of water as he finally came to the realization
of his baptism. I had done it. I had made him into a Godson
and he had turned me into a Godfather. From that moment on Sophecles
and I have been family. Another link in a chain of many. And
in ways Sophecles had turned me into a man. On that day I saw
the most proud look on the proudest man I know; my father. He
gave me a big hug after the ceremony was complete. A hug, that
to me, was a welcoming to manhood.
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