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Andy in New Zealand

December 16th, 2002

We made it all the way up to the North Coast of the South Island yesterday. High mountain passes with spectacular views of the mountains and the ocean in the distance. We stopped at a little roadside café and had ice cream and fed the eels. Yes, that's right, fed the eels. They were huge and they slithered up out of the water like a nest of snakes snapping and darting their heads at anything that looked like food. We picked up a little "eel food" from the café and fed them from the end of a popsicle stick. They had pretty strong bites and more than once dragged the stick out of my hand and had a little fight over it.

Fortunately they never got more than a foot out of the water, so I was never completely surrounded and never in any real danger as far as I could tell. It was a good thing I was wearing shoes instead of sandals though because toes look an awful lot like "eel food."

eels

Next we went out to find some beaches and did locate the legendary TaTa beach. Golden sand, big limestone rock formations, and long views across to the mountains on the peninsula. The name is deceptive, however, because all the naked women I saw were busy tanning their backsides so it was really more like "Booty Beach." We spent the night in a nice little cabin where we could wander the beaches and had a good fish dinner at the local pub along with plenty of good dark beer. Now we're off down the coast to Westport and possibly meeting with Bruce and Laura the day after near the Franz Josef glacier.

TaTa Beach
TaTa Beach

December 14th, 2002

So yesterday we drove up the coast north of Kaikoura, and ended up in Nelson for the night. The mountains up here are very cool and the road is winding but it in very good shape. Very fun to drive. You can see lots of old growth forest on the mountains but it's clear that up until maybe 30 years ago the Logging Industry was just freaking off the leash around here and a lot of clear-cutting went on. There are high mountain passes that are sheep pastures now, and what growth there is in many places looks like it was planted. Still, most places you get some spectacular views of snow covered mountains all the way to the ocean. The vegetation is also a wild mix with palm trees standing next to big spruce and evergreens.

Nelson is a cool town and one of the oldest English settlements on the island. Lots of Victorian architecture, pubs, cricket fields, botanical gardens, very British. Today we're heading up to Abel Tasman peninsula to see some of the park and coastline. Maybe get out on the water a bit. There's a place called TaTa Beach that sounds very interesting.

All for now,
Andy

 


Dolphin Beach, New Zealand

December 13th, 2002

A fine day in Kaikoura. We had steaks at the Pier hotel, which has been around for a hundred years or so but used to be about 2 miles down the coast and they rolled the entire hotel to its current location on logs. We spent the night in a little guest cottage this guy had right on the beach, and he promptly gave me a beer so all was right with the world.

Map of New Zealand

The landscape here is amazing. You've got the beach, then miles of wine country, followed by snow capped mountains and ski areas. Sarah, as usual, is going nuts over the beach and wandering around the tide-pools picking up critters and generally vacillating between "Hey look at this!" and "Eeeeewwww!" Yesterday we took a detour to another beach and ended up on this winding gravel road that wound among rock formations, hilltop forests, and sheep pastures in the lowlands. We saw one guy herding sheep from a motorcycle with two dogs doing most of the work. The sheep had just been sheared and ran all over the place in a mad panic when we drove up, but they got them under control and back in the fence.

Now we're off up the coast again to Nelson. We'll send more news from there.

Andy


Sarah at Gooch Beach

 


Customs House Ruins

One item I've noticed here is that they seem to have very small niche stores like "Chain Hoist World" and "Not Just Coffins" which are clearly markets the fancy pants capitalists in the US have overlooked.


Last View of the Palmer

 


Sarah

We are meeting my friend and fellow ET Romeo who has bought a surfboard and plans to try it out. He is dreadfully afraid of sharks, however, and was somewhat distressed to discover that Kaikoura is the largest shark watching area in New Zealand, with tourists getting in shark cages while they chum the waters around them and proceed to scare themselves silly.


Sheep



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