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Andy in Antarctica 2004

Andy's recommended reading
about ships in the Arctic and Antarctic

"The Endurance : Shackleton's Legendary Antarctic Expedition"
by CAROLINE ALEXANDER

Andy says: "Simply the best book about Shackleton with the best of Hurley's pictures."

"North to the Night : A Spiritual Odyssey in the Arctic" by ALVAH SIMON

Andy says: "A modern day story of being trapped in the Arctic Ice. Now subtitled a
" spiritual odyssey" when it's really about stupidity, hubris, and madness which
is often mistaken for spirituality."

"2182 kHz"
by DAVID MASIEL

Andy says: "Excellent fiction about working on ships in the Arctic and Alaskan waters. David Masiel takes unstable characters, traps them on small ships for months
at a time while subjecting them to lethal weather and ice while working under
the sensible and benevolent corporate policies of the modern world." (Note:
2182 kHz is the radio band for distress calls)

Cheers,
Andy


support Andy's Antarctica, buy these books from the above links


Trip 16


The Gould in drydock. You can see the big staircase we had to climb to get
on and off the boat. The props and shafts have already been pulled out, and
you can see the rudder laying on the ground next to the ship. We had to
wear hard hats absolutely all the time we were outside in drydock, and long
pants and steel toed shoes even though it was at least 95 degrees every day.

August 30, 2004

Just sitting off shore on the pacific side of the Panama Canal, an
easy zodiac ride away from the local yacht club and cool cervesas. We're
waiting on repair work for a leaking sonar window that they didn't install
right in Fouchon. It's costing them 20 grand a day for us to sit here.
Plus, if divers can't fix it, we get hauled out of the water again in
Talcahuano, Chile for more drydock work. The schedule is all shot to hell.
I really have no idea when we'll get back.

Anyhow, in this first pic I'm up on the mast in Drydock, with
lovely Fourchon, LA in the background. I spent hours up there, baking
in the sun, rewiring every cable for every instrument. One time I forgot
sun screen and realized I was being baked alive. To protect myself
I taped 3" foil strips from the cable insulation over my arms and
the back of my neck. It worked I guess, but I'm glad no one
could see me.


One of the bigger jobs was replacing bent hull plates on the bottom of the
ship. They could fabricate any hull plate they needed, and then weld bolt
points onto the ship to hold it into position and weld it in place.


 

This was the view as we left Fouchon and headed out into the Gulf. You can
see the oil platforms offshore. The whole gulf for miles around was filled
up with those platforms.

 

The Gould in drydock after they finished the new paint job. They had tarps
strung to try and contain the sand and the paint spray but it still got
everywhere.



View of the surrounding port from the Gould mast. At one time I counted 31
cranes visible in just one direction. The port went on for miles and miles.

This is the 01 deck of Gould in mid drydock. We had cables running
everywhere, plus they kept stringing up tarps all over the ships so people
could have some shade. It was upper 90's every day, plus unbelievable
humidity, and the sand from the giant sandblasters got everywhere. We're
still cleaning it out. The cables were power, high pressure air,
Oxy-Acetylene for the cutting torches, big power lines for the welders,
plus vent lines for the poor guys cleaning out the bilge tanks, plus shore
power and water lines. They had all plumbing and water cut off most of the
dry dock. No showers, no toilets, no air conditioning or even ventilation,
no way to wash your hands or anything. We all slept on a boat moored
outside the drydock, and had to carry bottle water everywhere.


Kev, Dave and I inspecting the giant new winch they installed on the 01
deck. This thing is a lot bigger than the old winch, and is built on a
giant welded steel platform that takes up the whole back end of the deck.



This is the day we'd all been waiting for when they sank the drydock and
floated the boat. The drydock was actually this big barge thing called the
" 7200 Pick Up" for 7200 tons capacity. The Gould sits inside it when it's
sunk, get's positioned over these big blocks, then they pump the water out
and raise the whole ship up about 20 feet out of the water.


This is the gang on our two days off in New Orleans on Bourbon Street. We
never really got out of the French Quarter. The girls are "Tooter Girls"
who sell you shots of various glow in the dark drinks. We hung out on that
balcony for hours, then wandered down the street to hear bands and see the
scenery.



One of the voodoo stores displaying their merchandise. I like the "Voodoo
unto others before they voodoo unto you" T-shirts.



This is Kev in front of one of the Voodoo Stores on Bourbon street. The
most famous one is Marie Laveau's which has a shrine to her inside with
hundreds of precariously balanced candles and trinkets all over it and a
big sign warning of the absolutely unfathomable level of bad luck you get
if you knock any of the stuff over. It was kinda funny watching how
careful all the drunks got when they were walking next to it. I would of
gotten a picture but hey had a big sign saying photo's of the shrine were
bad luck too. You don't mess with the most famous witch in New Orleans history.


This pic was when the Tooter girls convinced Fred and Joel to buy yet
another round of test tube shots. Those trays hold 40 shots each and the
six of us split a full tray both nights we were out on Bourbon Street.

I thought this shot was cool. Note all the old strings of Mardi Gras beads
on top of the sign.

Two girls we found on the street who gave us a public bump and grind dance
show. Little scenes like this happened all night long.



Some really cool looking building in the French Quarter. Lots of good
wrought iron work everywhere.


Another rock bar with a less traditional sound. A lot of places let
customers get up on stage and sing with the band, or even pick songs. This
meant that instead of classic New Orleans Blues or Jazz, every other bar
had "Sweet Home Alabama" or "Freebird" blasting out of it.



The start of the Panama Canal at Gatun Locks. Each lock is a 1000 feet
long, so they fit us in with another 500 foot ship from New Zealand. This
lock has three levels and it took us maybe two hours to transit through. I
was expecting a constant stream of traffic but it was actually pretty
empty. The canal has two separate channels, but they never even used
the other channel all night.



About halfway to Panama we realized that the new sonar window was leaking.
This is bad. When we got to Colon the Captain and the Chief engineer rented
Scuba gear and a underwater camera to check out the problem. This is not
something we want to have to deal with in water around Antarctica. So far
we haven't been able to stop the leak, so we may have to pull out again in
another drydock in Talcahuano, Chile on our way south.


I thought this pic captured the spirit of Panama pretty well. We saw a
bunch of guys playing Domino's on the street too.



A major street in Colon, Panama. Note the high quality wiring everywhere.

 



Some of the side streets in Colon seem to be rapidly returning to jungle.
For some reason the Pacific side of the canal gets all the money. The city
there, Balboa, is huge with skyscrapers and 6 lane highways and every chain
store known to man, but the Gulf side of the canal is pretty much a slum.

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